Near a Valnerina Feudal Castle, an Umbrian Culinary Discovery

Castello di Postignano in Umbria è un villaggio medievale. Il paese è conosciuto per la fojata, un tipo di calzone che contiene ortaggi, aglio ed olio d’oliva. C’è un ristorante chiamato Fojateria che è il più famoso per questa prelibatezza. Il ristorante ha anche altri prodotti unici in questa parte dell’Umbria come il ciauscolo, un tipo di salame. 

We had set out to explore the Castello di Postignano in the Valnerina mountain area of Umbria with no plans for a lunch stop. Castello di Postignano is a medieval hamlet rescued from abandonment and decay by a decades-long painstaking work of restoration. The result is a stunning example of how a complex historical structure can be brought back to life, making it an internationally renowned model of heritage conservation combined with the application of modern technology.

The hamlet consists of a number of private dwellings, a restaurant, a cafè, antiques, crafts and local produce shops, a church converted to an auditorium hosting a season of concerts and events, a number of art galleries, a billiard room, library, a swimming pool and spa, a fitness trail and much more, all open to residents and guests.

Thanks to a local tip, we discovered, not far from the imposing feudal castle, a small trattoria known for the culinary specialty of the Valnerina area, la fojata. “Fojata” is local dialect for “foglia” (leaf). Steamed and sautéed in garlic and olive oil, leafy greens merge in the filling of la fojata, a savory sort of strudel. 

There is no better place to try this local delicacy than in a ristorante named for la fojata, La Fojateria. The sign over the entrance indicated that this spot offered cucina (“cooking”), bar and “tipicita” (typical local products). 

Inside, we found a table, not far from the bar area where glass cases displayed tipicita and a blackboard offered the menu of the day. Near the bar in glass cases, typical products of the Valnerina area were offered including many pork products like ciauscolo (a soft salami), lonzino, capocollo, pancetta (bacon), salami, and mortadella, many cheese varieties, Umbrian wines, and typical Valnerina area legumes and corn flour for polenta. Diners all around were enjoying the cuisine of La Fojateria. We will definitely return!