It is always an honor to take students to study in the Kent State Program in Florence. While I teach a very intensive course on Aviation Security and Policy to undergraduate students, the true purpose of studying abroad is to immerse them in a different culture. Students are expected to take two classes per session over a four-week period. I typically teach in Florence in July, and it is undoubtedly the highlight of my summer.
Students experience Florentine life outside of class, which runs from Monday through Thursday, 9:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. They are expected to travel and explore Europe from Thursday to Sunday evening. One mandatory excursion is a trip to Siena during the first week of July to witness the Palio di Siena, the famous horse race. The remaining three weeks are left for students to decide where they would like to go. I keep the classwork confined to Monday through Thursday, and once Thursday’s class is finished, so is their coursework. Their homework on the weekend starting Thursday after class is to get culturally immersed. I encourage them to explore, and as a professor, I believe it is important to lead by example, so I too travel.
Most of my travels are to visit my family in Gorizia. On Thursday evening or Friday morning, I take the train to Venice using the “Trainline” app to book tickets. From there, I rent a car at Venice Airport and drive the 1.5 hours to Gorizia. This past year, I rented a car from Florence Airport as it turned out to be cheaper than the train, and it offered a different experience, as I don’t usually drive in Italy. I enjoy the Autostrada, especially the service stations, which always feature full-service restaurants with an incredible selection of Italian food, wine (yes, wine!), and snacks – all of which are satisfying and healthy.
This past summer, I drove up after a stifling heatwave during the second-to-last week of July. I always visit Castello di Spessa, where my father grew up, and buy the wine my grandfather invented. Since grappa cannot be exported, I also purchase my yearly supply. I then make the obligatory stop at my grandparents' grave, remembering their struggles and contributions to our family's history, and lay flowers in their honor. Ten minutes later, I arrive at my cousin Sandra’s house, which is my favorite part of the Italian experience. Sandra always shares fascinating stories about my dad when he was younger, our aunts and uncles, and our grandparents. She always manages to tell me something new. This time, she reminded me that I am the youngest cousin in the family, a fact that made me reflect deeply. Out of eight aunts and uncles – four of whom stayed in Italy and four who immigrated, three to Canada and one to Australia, many of whom have now passed on – I, like my father, am the youngest of that generation.
The usual course of the day involves talking, eating, and spending time together. We often go to my cousin’s daughter’s home in Gorizia. Interestingly, when I’m there, the male family members are particularly happy because they enjoy eating meat with me. You see, most of my cousins are vegetarians and very health conscious. So, Sandra’s husband, Claudio, and her son-in-law, Carlos, fire up the grill to cook ćevapi, a popular ground meat dish in Slovenia. These grilled minced meat sausages originated in the Balkans during the Ottoman period and are a staple of Slovenian cuisine, often served at barbecues. However, this time, Sandra’s grandson, Davide, had a different idea. On Saturday, he announced that we would visit Trieste, a city about a half-hour drive away, for a stroll, a museum visit, and lunch at an Osmica.
We drove to Trieste via a scenic back road. Davide mentioned that he usually exercises and runs in the hilly area along the Slovenian border. As we drove, a motorcycle sped past us at high speed, prompting Camilla to shout, “PAZZO!” Intrigued, I asked her what “pazzo” meant, and she explained it meant “crazy.” This led to a discussion about the Pazzi family of Florence. I recalled the failed conspiracy where the Pazzi family attempted to overthrow the Medici family, perhaps a fitting connection to the term “pazzo.”
As we neared Trieste, I spotted an enormous ship – massive, even by cruise ship standards. It looked like something out of a James Bond movie. This ship had been seized by Italian authorities from an oligarch at the start of the Ukrainian Russian war, but it has been stuck in the Trieste harbor ever since, costing the Italian government a small fortune. No one seems to know what to do with it. A nearby cruise ship appeared minuscule next to this colossal vessel.
After finding parking, we explored the streets and canals of Trieste, a city known for its engineering and technological universities. The energy in the city was palpable, and I was particularly struck by its coffee culture. Trieste, located on the Gulf of Trieste beside the Adriatic Sea, offers a blend of old-world charm and youthful energy. My cousin Davide took us to the Revoltella Museum, a modern art gallery established in 1872. Baron Pasquale Revoltella, a successful entrepreneur who played a key role in the creation of the Suez Canal, donated his collection and home to the city. Some of the technology in the museum, especially the surveillance systems, were ahead of their time. The artwork was impressive, and I plan to return for another visit.
After spending most of the morning in the museum, we were ready for lunch. While walking back to the car, we stopped off visiting the shops and I noticed a place called Buffet Da Pepi, which had local Trieste food which is influence by the Austro Hungarian empire. This is definitely a place I want to return to. The menu featured boiled foods. However, we were going to something even more local in nature.
This is when I experienced an “Osmica.” This is a Slovenian tradition where farmers open their homes to offer visitors homemade food and wine. The name “Osmica” comes from the Slovenian word “osem,” meaning "eight," which refers to the eight-day period when farmers could sell their goods without paying taxes. This tradition dates back to the 18th century when Empress Maria Theresa of Austria allowed winemakers to sell wine and offer meals without taxation. Osmica events are held twice a year, allowing locals and tourists alike to enjoy authentic Slovenian food and drink, often accompanied by music and singing.
Following Davide’s guidance, which he received through a local newspaper, we walked through the hilly streets of Trieste, following olive branches and signs leading us to an Osmica. The journey was uphill, but it was well worth it. Everything at the farm was made by the farmer – wine, cheese, meats, fruits, vegetables, and even dessert. We enjoyed a full tasting, starting with boiled eggs (a digestive aid for the wine, apparently), followed by white wine, red wine, water, prosciutto, salami, cheeses – some aged in caves, others in cellars – all delicious. The dessert, a ricotta cheese dish topped with walnuts and honey, was the most enjoyable dessert I’ve had in Italy. It was simple, sweet, and healthy!
After a few hours of eating, drinking, talking, and laughing, it was late afternoon, and we returned to Gorizia to rest before dinner. Unfortunately, Sandra’s husband, Claudio, and I were feeling the effects of the indulgence and needed a few hours of recovery (more like a day) before the evening festivities. It is on most days that I dream of returning not only to see my family, but longing for a meal at Buffet da Pepi!
